High above the crowds of Lake Como sits a small Italian village that most visitors never discover. Technically, it’s Bellagio. In reality, Civenna feels like another world.
Mention Bellagio and most people picture the same scene: elegant hotels, cobbled streets, boats crossing the lake and crowds wandering between restaurants and boutiques along the waterfront.
Drive ten minutes up the mountain, however, and things change remarkably quickly.
Welcome to Civenna.
Sitting high above Lake Como and forming part of the municipality of Bellagio, Civenna is one of those increasingly rare places where the extraordinary beauty of the lake meets the rhythm of an authentic Italian village.
And for anyone looking beyond the obvious locations around Lake Como, it might just be Bellagio’s best-kept secret.
The Other Side of Bellagio
The journey from central Bellagio to Civenna is short, but the contrast is considerable.
As the road climbs away from the lake, busy streets give way to woodland, mountain scenery and spectacular viewpoints. By the time you arrive in Civenna, the atmosphere has changed completely.
There are no queues for ferries and few groups of tourists following umbrellas through narrow streets.
Instead, there is a village.
People stop for coffee. Neighbours talk in the street. Children play nearby. Local businesses serve people who actually live here rather than an endless procession of day-trippers.
It feels Italian rather than simply a destination in Italy.
That distinction is becoming increasingly valuable around Lake Como.
The View Changes Everything
Civenna's elevated position provides something even many prestigious lakeside locations cannot: perspective.
From viewpoints around the village, the landscape opens dramatically towards Lake Como, the surrounding mountains and the Grigne range.
The famous Civenna Belvedere is one of the area's highlights, and the village has become increasingly known among walkers and cyclists exploring the mountains above Bellagio.
Yet despite the views, Civenna remains surprisingly under the radar internationally.
Visitors can spend several days in Bellagio without realising that this small community exists just a few kilometres above them.
That won't necessarily remain the case forever.
Lake Como Is Changing
For generations, the Lake Como property market has been dominated by one simple idea: get as close to the water as possible.
Bellagio, Menaggio, Tremezzo and the villages surrounding Como itself became internationally recognised destinations, with waterfront property commanding increasingly extraordinary prices.
But the market is broadening.
Buyers are beginning to look beyond the traditional lakefront hotspots towards villages offering space, privacy, views and authenticity while remaining within easy reach of the lake.
Civenna fits that profile almost perfectly.
You can have breakfast overlooking the mountains, drive down to Bellagio for lunch, take a boat across Lake Como in the afternoon and return to the peace of the village in the evening.
It offers access to Bellagio without requiring you to live permanently amongst Bellagio's visitors.
A Village With Its Own Identity
It would be a mistake, however, to think of Civenna simply as somewhere to sleep while visiting Bellagio.
The village has its own history and character.
Old houses line its streets, villas sit amongst mature gardens and walking routes disappear into the surrounding mountains. The local Belvedere has long provided one of the area's great panoramas, while more recent attractions such as the giant Big Bench have introduced a new generation of visitors to the village.
There is also something increasingly difficult to manufacture in famous destinations: community.
Civenna remains a place where people live throughout the year.
For second-home owners, that matters.
The difference between owning a beautiful property in a seasonal tourist destination and becoming part of a genuine Italian community can completely change the experience of owning a home abroad.
Perhaps the Secret Is Already Getting Out
There are signs of change.
Properties are being renovated. New developments are appearing. International buyers are exploring further into the hills above the lake, and locations previously regarded as secondary are increasingly being considered on their own merits.
Infrastructure and connectivity also make the proposition compelling. Bellagio is minutes away, while Milan and its airports remain accessible for international owners travelling from the UK, northern Europe and further afield.
Civenna therefore occupies an interesting position.
It is close enough to one of the world's most famous destinations to benefit from everything Bellagio offers, yet sufficiently removed to retain the character that made Lake Como special in the first place.
And perhaps that is the real attraction.
The future of Lake Como may not simply belong to the villages everybody already knows.
It may belong to the places overlooking them.
For now, Civenna remains peaceful, authentic and remarkably undiscovered.
Bellagio is famous around the world.
Civenna is the part you’ll want to keep to yourself
Written by The Como Private Desk
4 minutes